Thursday, 19 December 2013

Trek to Mantalai lake, Parvati Valley

Trek to Mantalai Lake (14000ft), Parvati Valley - May/June 2013




The Route Tracked using 'Google My Tracks' and Plotted on Google Earth

In the month of March'13 we decided that Mantalai lake will be the destination of our next trek. 8 of us were ready for this trek(7 from Mumbai, 1 from Delhi). We booked our air tickets (to Chandigarh) well in advance to get lowest possible fares. The trek was for 7 days as per the itinerary provided by our tour operator (Greatwideopen.in). As there were 8 of us traveling the tour operator allowed us flexible dates(28th May to 5th June).

Below is the list of essentials:

1. Good quality Rucksack(50L should suffice, Quechua/Wildcraft recommended), rucksack is preferred to hard luggage as the porters have to carry the luggage on their backs/head and it is easy for them to carry the rucksack.
2. Flexible trekking shoes (Recommended Quechua flex novadry) which have excellent grip and are very flexible. Flexibility is required as there are lots of rocky/stony paths along the way which require the shoe to bend along with the feet so as to avoid sprains.
3. Light weight and loose (around the thigh) Trekking pants(Jeans strictly not recommended)
4. Thermals, Sweaters, Jacket, monkey caps.
5. Woolen socks, gloves(waterproof).
6. Sun Screen, Lip Guard, Glares, Cap, Walking stick/pole(Along the way the Guides will provide Stick from trees).
7. Gulcose D/ tang / Gatorade helps in keeping the body hydrated during walking. 
8. Dry Fruits, Biscuits, dry snacks to carry on the way.
9. Battery Banks for Mobile charging. Extra AA Batteries for Cameras.
10. Torch

Day1 : 28th May (Mumbai - Chandigarh - Kasol) 

Tip: It is best to book Transport between Chandigarh/Kasol well in Advance(12 Seater bus costs 12,000 INR non AC)


We reached Chandigarh in the morning(11:00 AM) and started our journey towards Kasol(which is the starting point for trek). Kasol is on the road towards Manali (right turn from Bunter) and take around 9-10 hours from Chandigarh. We reached Kasol at around 9:00 PM. The road is via Mandi, Bilaspur and the drive along side the river is a scenic one.Once we reached Kasol, the outside weather was quite opposite to the Mumbai heat..a welcome break and we had to get our Jackets out. Kasol is a quite small town with lots of foreigners( 99% will be from  Israel). There are quite a good no of eating places in town(Bhoj and Little Italy recommended for good Indian food). Here we met Kashiji(from Yash Travels) who was going to be our Guide for the Journey. We spend the night @ guest house and tucked in early as next day onwards the actual trek was to begin.

Day 2 : 29th May (Kasol - Bharseni[6955ft] - Kheerganga[8549ft])

Tip : Kasol(MRP)/Kheerganga (1.5 to 2.0 X MRP) are the last major town where one can get food and other supplies. so better to stock up for any missing items.

BF : Paratha/Pickle/Omlette
Lunch : Paratha and Pickle
Eve Snack : Maggi
Dinner : Rice/Dal/Aloo & Roti/Burji


The  Total team consisted of 8 Porters, 1 Main Guide(kanshi) and 1 Budding Guide(Prem) along with 8 of use.

We started at around 10:00 in the morning.The starting point of trek is from Bersheni which is a 1 and 1/2 hrs drive from kasol. The Tour operator organizes Sumo/Vehicle for this part. The Drive is very shaky as the road is not a proper tar road. En route we pass the temple town of Manikaran(famous for its hot water springs). There is a Hydro Power project on at Barsheni, and a lot of construction activity is under way.


At Bersheni, the merging point of Tosh(left) and Parvati(Right) Rivers

At Bherseni one can see the merger of Tosh and the Parvati river. We started our trek at round 12:00 from Bherseni towards Kheer-Ganga,which was going to be our halt for the night.


From here the climb starts and one passes through a village on the way. one can get refreshments(tea/Water/Snacks) in this village.

Midway one reaches the temple of RudraNag, which is located next to a waterfall. This was our break point for lunch. Up to this point the trek is mostly flat to slight uphill, but from this point the trek is mostly uphill.

We reached Kheer Ganga at around 6:30 PM. Kheer Ganga is the last point of civilization where one can buy stuff and are reachable via Phone(only BSNL, after climbing till hot water springs for range). One can buy things like biscuits/juices/chips water etc, but the same are 1.5x to 2x the MRP.(justified based on the efforts taken by locals to get the stuff so high). At kheer Gange one finds the Hot Springs which have a whitish stuff floating in it (sulphar) which resembles kheer, based on which this place has got its name. 

Since it was very cold and late at night, we decided to take a bath in the spring next morning.

The Porters setup the tents and got busy with preparing the evening snacks and dinner. Since we were all male team members, the toilet tent was not put up and the toilets were open nature behind rocks and below trees along the flowing stream.


Left two tents for us(8 ppl), Right two for porters and guides(10 ppl)
Day 3: 30th May (Kheer Ganga to Thanda Bhuj[10856ft])

BF : Maggi /Roti Burji
Lunch : Roti and Aloo Subji
Eve Snack : Maggi and soup
Dinner : Dal Rice aloo subji





Hot Springs at Kheerganga

We started early in the morning around 9 am after taking a bath in the hot springs. Today's trek was full Uphill and strenuous. 

Tip: one can find fresh water streams continuously along the path and there is no need to carry water bottles. Bottles are required only to take the water from stream and drink.


We could see a lot of sheeps/horses being taken towards Mantalai where the guide told us that the shepherds will stay till October and come back once the snow starts to build up. 



Afternoon Rest after Lunch Midway between KheerGanga and ThadaBhuj

We reached ThadaBhuj around 6:00 in the evening. It was much chillier then kheerganga. The Guide prepared hot piping Maggi and soup for us which was much needed and refreshing.

Most of us by now were hit by the high altitude and felt nausea, headaches were common.Crocin and other paracetamol tablets provided us much needed relief. 


Food Being Prepared and view of Waterfall/Rainbow and our Tents at ThandaBhuj


Day 4 : May 31st  (Thanda Bhuj to Udi Thatch[11696ft]).

BF : Roti Omlette
Lunch : Dal Rice Aloo Subji
Even Snack : Soup Maggi
Dinner : Maggi , Rice Dal Subji (Again Aloo)



This was a Major day when we were to cross two Major landmarks, the wooden bridge and pandav Pool. Today we could find lots of snow in our paths. As the day progressed, the trees started to become less and less and the terrain was mostly flat. The trek till now was on only one one side of the river Parvati. We reached a wooden bridge which we had to cross to get to the other side. To our surprise the bride was broken and leaning 45 degs. On close inspection we decided not to take the risk and decided against crossing the same.Since the bridge was broken our trek time increased by around 3 hours and we had to take a treacherous path. 


The Slanted Broken Bridge..To go or Not to Go?

Snow Crossing for the first time.

We decided against using the bridge and proceeded along the same side of river.. where some treacherous paths were waiting for us. We reached a point where we were faced with a vertical rock cliff which we had to go around to move ahead(pic below). The Porters helped us get across one at a time.


Notice the margin for error and the gushing river below.

Tip : Always cross any streams or waterfalls before 2 PM as after that the snow melts and the water force is too heavy and at times there are stone/boulders that can come crashing down 
along with the water.


Notice the Barefoot, slope and weight on the head/back(around 30 Kgs)
  
Since we had continued along the same side or river, we did not get to use the cage rope way which was required to get back to this side if the earlier wooden bridge is used.

Vertical Limit


We reached pandav pool which was crossed one at a time with the help of rope. 
Way to Pandav Pool


Pandav Pool

As all were tired we setup our tents around 2 hours before Udi Thatch. The next day was a test of ultimate endurance as we had to reach Mantalai and back which meant around 30 km and 12-14 hours of trek.

By now we were bored of rice/dal and aloo and had started longing for some variety in food. 
Preparing for Evening Dinner


Evening rest post Tents Setup

Luckily some of us had carried spicy Maggi soup sachets and the same helped in pepping up the mood.



Day 5 : 1st June (Udi Thatch minus 2 hr to Mantalai[14000ft] and Back to Udi Thatch)

BF : Kheer (Courtesy locals for goat milk)
Lunch :  Rice Aloo Subji
Even Snack : Tang , Tang Tang
Dinner : Soup Maggi



Morning BF(Kheer), courtesy Local Shepherds and Goats.


Start for the Big Day

We started early in the morning 7:00 am and decided that we will shift the tents 2 hrs further to udithatch so that we can cut down on the travel time while coming back by 2 hrs. 

The Prime requirements for setting up tent are fresh water and wood for cooking. Water is available but wood becomes sparse and sparse as we approach Mantalai.

From the 8 of us, 4 decided that they will not be able to make it to the top and so decided to stay back. The remaining 4 increased their pace such that they could reach to top and return back soon. Around 11:00 we reached a place called mini mantalai, which is a large flat lake where the snow is completely melted. from here in the distance one could see the edge of actual mantalai lake. 
Mini Mantalai - Half Way Mark

From here on the trek is mostly flat except for the last 1 to 1.5 km which has to be covered on snow which is also vertical.

Around 2:30 PM We finally managed to reach the top(rather flat lake) which was fully covered with ice. There is temple where our guide lit a lamp. 







The view was refreshing and we all felt a sense of achievement after having strived for so many days not reaching the top would have been very disappointing.

For the first time we saw the actual source of a river and how it was emerging from melting snow. 

We turned back around 3 after clicking lots of pictures as we still had a lot of ground to cover on the way back.

One can slide down on a plastic on the snowy slope which is a quicker and fun way to get back down faster.

Started back satisfied at having reached the top. Reached back to the camp at around 7:30 where some hot soup was awaiting us. The way back was more difficult as in the evening the water level had rised considerably in the streams and we had to take a longer route to cross them.


Day 6 : 2nd June (Udi thatch to Thakur Kaun).

BF: Roti / Omlette
Lunch : Soup Maggi
Eve Snack: Maggi
Dinner : Prawns (One of use had carried frozen ones, but they never cooked)

We started back on the tracks that we had come crossing the pandav pool. However when nearing thakur kaun in the afternoor around 4:00 the water level had risen considerable and a there was a lot of rocks/boulders that where falling and we had to run like hell to escape from them . We had removed our shoes when crossing the waterfall and as we were running barefoot lot of us got cuts/bruised on their legs. we finally managed to reach somewhere before thakur kaun where we decided that it was enough for the day and erected our tents.

There was some rain that evening and the weather was turning. We were lucky that the weather had supported us till now.

Day 7 : 3rd June(Thakur Kaun to Kheer Ganga/Kasol)

BF: Paratha
Lunch: Maggi
Even Snack: Chow Mein
Dinner: Chicken /Trout/Chicken/More chicken


Our flight was the next to next day(5th June) and we had to take a decision to do a double hop and directly reach kasol today without taking a halt at kheer ganga.

Hence we started early and on the way reached the same wooden pool which was broken. to our suprise we could see lots of horse and sheep crossing the same without any efforts. some locals had tied some supporting ropes to the same.

we reached kheer ganga at around 3:00 . we rested for some time had lunch/ juice and a hot bath (after 5 days) in the hot springs. We started for kasol at around 4:00.

Food Supplies on the Way to Kheer-Ganga on Horses

We managed to reached Barseni by 7:00 and were relived that we will not miss our flights. At Barseni we decided to have chow-mein at the first dhaba/shack/hotel that we could see. We ordered for 2 Plates as there were 4 of us. We were amazed at seeing the quantity, as 2 places were served in 4 plates. Upon protesting that we had ordered only 2 plates, the lady told us that this was only 2 plates...we were shocked seeing the quantity. The Chow-Mein tasted like heaven after eating only dal rice for 5 days. We also took tea and some Bisleri bottles. We were further shocked, seeing the bill..only INR 120.. For 2 chow-mein, 2 Bisleri and 4 Tea. 
Sumo was arranged from berseni to kasol and we reached our Guest house in kasol at around 9:00. 

We had a royal feast of non veg at little Italy. The Trout is a local fish and specialty at the restaurant. Upon reaching the Guest house we were more than happy to sleep on regular bed and the fact that there was a proper bathroom.

Day 8 : 4th June ( Kasol - ManiKaran - Chandigarh)

We started for Manikaran and from there on back to chandigarh.
Manikaran is famous for its Hot Water Springs. There are also lots of private Hotels who offer this facility for a small fee.



Finally reached Chandigarh at around 10:00 PM. checked into local hotel in sector 35c for the night.

Day 9: 5th June (chandigarh - Mumbai)

Back to Mumbai(with lots of memories and photos)  & baag daud wali zindagi :)

Some interesting observations:

1. When crossing waterfalls streams the rocks/stone do not have any moss(greenish stuff) and hence are non slippery and one can cross the same with confidence. This may be due to the fact that the weather and water is so cold that moss cannot sustain itself.

2. The Air gets chilly during the periods the sun rises and when the sun is going down(local input)

3. The water one drinks on the way is freezing cold, but one is able to drink the same.

4. Luck plays a major factor as one has to cross such narrow paths along the way that when one looks back at them wonders how one managed to do that.

Tips : 

1. Carry lots of supplements like glucose D, Tang or gatorade to keep oneself hydrated along the way.

2. Drink lots of water along the way and keep urinating. This keeps the body hydrated. One tends not to drink water due to the cold weather whcih can be dangerous.

3. Carry pain killers like crocin which help a lots.

4. Due to lack of oxygen as one goes higher there is tremendous headache which is normal. Even a sudden 1m change in altitude (like climbing a small rock) and make a person very very uncomfortable.

5. When walking on snow, always kick the toe first and never walk with the heel first.

6. Before taking steps in snow, ensure that the snow is firm with help of a stick.

7. If one has a smart phone then one can install app like Google my tracks which can record the entire trek (based on gps and no internet connection is required). once back it can be viewed in Google earth. 

8. Carry enough supplies like biscuits/dry fruits to eat along the way.

9.  As the trek progresses there is no one withing miles but only the trek group. The guide told us that in case any group gets lost then the rescue mission starts only if they dont come back for 15 days.


In case you have any query or need info do not hesitate to write the same in the comments. i will respond as soon as possible.

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